A Dhampus Peak climb usually takes 10 to 14 days when approached from the Kali Gandaki valley, and longer when combined with the Dhaulagiri Circuit.
A two-week expedition
A typical Dhampus Peak climb takes ten to fourteen days from Jomsom. Heights and times are approximate.
Days 1 and 2: Jomsom and Marpha
Fly from Pokhara to Jomsom, about 20 minutes, and walk to Marpha at around 2,670 m.
Days 3 to 5: approach
Follow a side valley to the base camp, gaining height slowly with acclimatisation days.
Day 6: base camp
Set up base camp at around 4,600 m and rest.
Day 7 and 8: high camp
Climb on moraine and snow to a high camp.
Day 9: summit
A long summit day on snow slopes, returning to camp.
Days 10 to 12: descent
Return to Marpha and Jomsom and fly to Pokhara.
Acclimatisation notes
Spend extra nights at Marpha and base camp to adjust. A short walk up to a ridge near base camp helps. Do not ignore headaches or loss of appetite.
Summit day schedule
Start at about two in the morning, climb for six to eight hours, spend a short time on the summit and descend. Weather and wind decide the timing.
Reading the schedule
The itinerary assumes about three days of walking in the valley to reach base camp, one to two days of acclimatisation rest, and three days for the climb and descent. Rest days and weather days make the whole trip about two weeks. Keep your return flights flexible, since Jomsom flights are weather dependent.
What daily life is like
In Marpha, expect a comfortable lodge with hot meals and the famous apple brandy and cider. At base camp, you sleep in tents with a cook team. Expect cold nights, simple meals and early mornings.
Common questions
- How long is the climb? Ten to fourteen days from Jomsom.
- Where do I sleep? In lodges at Marpha, then in tents.
- Do I need a guide? Yes. A guide and permit are required.
Spare days
Wind and weather can delay flights. See the difficulty guide.
