Dhampus Peak is a moderate to hard trekking peak. It involves snow and ice slopes and high camps, so some mountaineering experience is advised.
A moderate technical climb
Dhampus Peak involves glacier and snow travel, with rope work on the summit day. It is not an easy hike, and it requires climbing gear and previous experience or training.
Altitude
Base camp is at around 4,600 m and the summit about 6,012 m. Acclimatisation days are necessary.
Skills
Use of crampons, ice axe and harness.
Support
A guide and climbing team are required.
What the climb is like
The route follows moraine, then a glacier with some crevasses and snow slopes of moderate angle. The summit ridge is exposed. A fixed rope may be used on the steepest sections.
Preparation
Train for endurance and practise crampon skills. Strengthen legs and core. Bring mountaineering boots, a harness, helmet and warm clothing.
What the grade means
Dhampus Peak is classed among the trekking peaks, and operators describe it as a moderate alpine climb. That means you do not need technical rock skills, but you do need to be comfortable on snow and ice slopes, to wear crampons confidently and to move roped up with a partner. Slopes on the final section reach about 40 degrees in places, and an exposed summit ridge is common. Compared with Island Peak, it is quieter, longer and more remote.
Fitness and acclimatisation
Plan on twelve hours or more for the summit day, including the return to high camp. The approach is gradual, with nights at Marpha, a mid-valley camp and base camp, so by the time you start climbing you will have spent several nights above 3,500 m. Even so, headaches and poor sleep are common at base camp. A calm pace, regular hydration and extra rest days are the best protection.
Safety
Watch weather and wind. See the itinerary.
Common questions
- Is it harder than Island Peak? They are of similar technical level, but Dhampus is more remote.
- Do I need ropes? Yes, the guide team brings them.
- How long is summit day? Eight to twelve hours.
