Machapuchare is closed to climbers. Nepal allows expeditions on 414 Himalayan peaks, but not on this one, and the ban has stood since the early 1960s. The reasons are respect for the mountain's sacred status and the fragile terrain around it, and a debate about reopening has grown.
What the ban covers
Climbing Machapuchare is not permitted, and Nepal does not issue normal climbing permits for it. Trekkers can still walk to Machapuchare Base Camp on the Annapurna Base Camp trek, because the trek stops well below the dangerous upper slopes.
How it began
A British expedition in 1957 led by Jimmy Roberts, with Wilfrid Noyce and David Cox, came within about 50 m of the summit and turned back, leaving the top untouched. Climbing was banned in the early 1960s.
Why it is closed
Local people hold the mountain sacred. Gurung cultural significance is also cited. Many believe a mountain with such meaning should stay untouched.
The case for reopening
Supporters, including the local municipality, say reopening would bring tourism income. They ask why other sacred mountains can be climbed. Municipal governments elected in 2017 and 2024 have supported opening it. Only 88 of the 414 permitted peaks had expedition permits last year, so some argue Nepal does not need more restrictions.
The case for keeping it closed
Opponents point to Gurung cultural and religious significance, and to the fragile terrain around the mountain.
What it means for you
Do not buy a trip that promises a Machapuchare summit. It would be illegal or misleading. You can enjoy the mountain from Pokhara, Sarangkot and many treks.
Plan it
Read the facts guide and the viewpoints guide.
