Makalu is regarded as one of the hardest of the 8,000 m peaks. It has a sharp pyramid shape with steep ridges, strong wind and little room for error. The standard route follows the north face and north-east ridge via the Makalu La, and harder routes were opened on the other faces.
The standard route
The route first used in 1955 climbs the north face and the north-east ridge, reached from the Makalu La saddle. It is the line most expeditions use, and it needs fixed ropes, high camps, and strong, experienced climbers. The final section is steep and exposed.
Harder routes
- Southeast ridge: first climbed in 1970 by a Japanese team
- West Pillar: climbed in 1971, a very technical line that was repeated only in 1980
- South face: 1975, by a Yugoslav expedition
- South pillar: 1976, by a Czechoslovak expedition
- North-west side: 1981, by Jerzy Kukuczka alone, in alpine style and without extra oxygen
- West face: 1997, by a Russian expedition after many failed attempts since 1977
Records
The first winter ascent was made on 9 February 2009 by Simone Moro and Denis Urubko. The first woman to climb Makalu was Kitty Calhoun, in 1990, by the West Pillar. The fastest ascent listed on the mountain is by Karl Egloff, who climbed it in 17 hours 18 minutes in May 2022, without Sherpa support or bottled oxygen.
Who should attempt it
Makalu is for climbers who already have 8,000 m experience. It is not a first 8,000 m peak for most people, because of its steepness and exposure. Expeditions use experienced guides, fixed ropes and extra oxygen.
Seasons
Most expeditions go in spring, in April and May. Autumn expeditions occur but face colder conditions and strong winds.
Permits
An expedition permit is issued by the Government of Nepal through a registered agency. Fees change, so ask your agency for the current amount.
Plan it
See the first ascent story or Makalu's neighbours. Trekkers can go to base camp, see how hard the trek is.
