The trek starts at Humkhola, the last place a jeep can reach, about 115 km from Pokhara. The drive takes six to seven hours by four-wheel-drive via Baglung and Beni, and the last section is rough. The return goes via Tatopani back to Pokhara.
Kathmandu to Pokhara first
Pokhara is the staging city. Fly from Kathmandu in about half an hour, drive for six to eight hours, or take a tourist bus. Most plans spend a night in Pokhara before the long drive west.
The drive to Humkhola
From Pokhara the road passes Kushma, with its long suspension bridge, then Baglung and Beni, and continues towards Narchyang. After that it becomes a rough track to Humkhola at about 2,890 m. Expect dust, bends and some landslide patches.
Shared or private jeep
A private four-wheel-drive is more comfortable and lets you stop. Shared jeeps run to Narchyang and are cheaper but slower. For a short trek with a fixed schedule, a private vehicle is usually worth it.
The return
From Humkhola the jeep goes to Tatopani, which has natural hot springs, and then on to Pokhara in about four to five hours. A soak in the springs is a welcome end to a camping trek.
Narchyang and Humkhola
Narchyang village offers homestays and a look at local life, and some operators sleep there before the walk. Humkhola has little more than a basic shelter.
Road risks
Rain can wash out sections of the track, especially from June to September. Keep a spare day and ask your operator for a current road report.
What the road is like
The tarmac ends not long after Beni, and from there the road to Narchyang and Humkhola is a mix of gravel, mud and rock. Expect to be shaken about. Travel sickness tablets help, and a front seat is useful if you are prone to motion sickness.
Timing the drive
Leave Pokhara early, ideally by seven. This puts you at Humkhola in the afternoon, with time to pitch camp before dark. A late start can mean walking the first stage after sunset.
If the road is blocked
Landslides sometimes close sections for hours. Your driver and guide know alternatives and will arrange for porters to carry loads past a slide. A spare day at the start or end of the trip is the best insurance.
Plan it
