The best months for Himlung Himal are April to May and September to October. The Nar Phu side is in the rain shadow, which allows some summer attempts, but winter is too cold and snowy.
Two seasons for the climb
Himlung Himal is usually climbed in spring (April and May) and autumn (September and October). Each has benefits and trade-offs.
Spring
Weather is more stable, though temperatures are cold at altitude. The approach valley is warm and green. Snow cover can be deeper, which affects the route.
Autumn
Dry conditions with clear skies are typical, but nights are colder and days shorter. The Nar Phu valley is golden at harvest time.
Monsoon and winter
The monsoon brings less rain here than elsewhere, but snow and storms are possible. Winter is extremely cold, with strong winds.
Detailed look at each window
Spring begins in April with cold nights and increasing warmth. Snow from the winter lies on the high slopes, and conditions are firm in the early morning. By mid May the weather becomes warmer, and afternoon clouds build. Autumn begins in late September when the air is clear after the monsoon. October brings the best visibility and the coldest temperatures. Late October storms can bring heavy snow.
Timing the summit
Experienced teams aim for the middle of each window. In spring that is the first two weeks of May. In autumn it is the first half of October. Always leave reserve days, because a single storm can close the route for several days.
Practical weather notes
Daytime temperatures at base camp range from about zero to ten degrees in the sun, falling to minus fifteen at night. On the upper mountain, temperatures can drop to minus thirty with wind chill. Down suits, insulated boots and warm mittens are required.
Monsoon influence
The Manang region is partly shielded from the monsoon, so rain is limited in summer. The approach is possible in June, but cloud and snowfall on the peak make summit attempts unreliable.
Choosing
Choose late April to May or late September to October. See the difficulty guide.
Common questions
- Can I climb in summer? Yes in the rain shadow, but the approach may be wet.
- Is autumn better? Often clearer, with colder nights.
- How many climbers? Few. Camps are quiet.
