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Upper Mustang seen from Kagbeni
Upper Mustang

Kagbeni as the gateway to Upper Mustang: checkpoint and first stages

3 min readUpdated 23 Oct 2026By the Base Camp Hikes trek team

For many travellers, Kagbeni is both an end point and a beginning. This page explains how the village fits the restricted-area trek beyond it.

The checkpoint

Just north of the village, officials check permits for Upper Mustang. Your agency arranges the permit and your guide handles the process.

First stages

The classic route continues to Chele and Chhusang, with villages, caves and big red cliffs. See the Upper Mustang itinerary.

Permit and fees

Upper Mustang has its own fee and rules. See the permit fee guide and guide and solo rules.

Preparing in Kagbeni

  • Confirm permits and your itinerary.
  • Buy snacks, water and last-minute supplies.
  • Check weather and wind.
  • Decide jeep or foot for the first stage. See Upper Mustang by jeep or on foot.

Package

Our Upper Mustang trek page shows how we organise the full route.

What changes beyond the checkpoint

Beyond Kagbeni, the landscape becomes more remote and dramatic, with towering cliffs, caves and old fortresses. The road continues, but the walking trails above it are the most rewarding. Villages are smaller, lodges simpler and the pace slower. Restricted-area rules apply, including guide requirements and permit checks at several points.

A short list for the night before

  • Pack your permits and passport copies in an accessible pocket.
  • Charge devices and power banks.
  • Fill water bottles or purify water for the next day.
  • Check the weather and wind forecast.
  • Confirm the plan for jeep or walking with your guide.

If you are not going to Upper Mustang

Kagbeni is still worth a stop. Many travellers use it as a base for the Muktinath walk or as a quiet night before returning to Jomsom.

Facts worth knowing about the checkpoint

  • Permits are checked here and at several later points, so keep copies handy.
  • Your guide handles registration, but you must carry your passport.
  • Photography of officials and the checkpoint building may be restricted; ask first.
  • Rules on solo travel and guides are strict; see our Upper Mustang guide-and-solo-rules page.

Common questions

Can I enter Upper Mustang without a permit?

No. A restricted-area permit is required, arranged through a registered agency.

Where do I buy the permit?

Through your agency in advance, not at Kagbeni.

How far is Chhusang?

The first stage beyond Kagbeni, typically a few hours by foot or a short jeep ride.

Dhaulagiri range seen over a hillside with prayer flags

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