Kanchenjunga is one of the hardest and most remote 8,000 m mountains, and it is climbed by few people. Expeditions go in spring, usually in April and May, on routes from the Nepal side, and they need an expedition permit and strong high-altitude experience.
How hard it is
The mountain is high, remote and complex. The approach alone takes days, the climb is long, and the weather can turn quickly. Climbers need real experience on other high peaks, strong fitness, and a good team. Fewer people have summited Kanchenjunga than most of the other 8,000 m peaks.
The main routes
The first route, from 1955, goes up the southwest face (the Yalung Face) from the Nepal side. Other routes approach the north side of the mountain from Pangpema. All of them are long and serious. An Indian army team added a route from the north-east spur in 1977.
Season
Most expeditions go in spring, when the weather is more stable before the monsoon. Autumn expeditions occur but have snow, wind and shorter days. Winter is extremely cold and rarely attempted.
Permits and rules
An expedition permit is issued by the Government of Nepal through a registered agency, and a special permit is required for the Kangchenjunga region. Fees change, so ask your agency for the current amount.
Risk
Avalanches, crevasses, rockfall and altitude illness are all real risks. Records show that Kanchenjunga has been among the more dangerous of the 8,000 m peaks. Figures vary by source and year, so we do not quote a rate here.
If you are a trekker
You do not need to climb to enjoy the mountain. The north and south base camp treks are the way to see it, with no technical skills. See how to see Kanchenjunga from Nepal.
Plan it
Our team arranges treks, not expeditions to the summit. For the trek, read the Kanchenjunga trek guides.
