Lobuche East is climbed in April to May and October to November. Winter is bitterly cold, and the monsoon brings snow and cloud.
December to February
Extreme cold. Not recommended.
March
Cold, improving late.
April and May
The main spring window.
June to September
Monsoon. Not recommended.
Cold and wind at altitude
At Lobuche East base camp, night temperatures fall to minus 10 in autumn and spring and lower in winter. The summit ridge is windy, especially in the afternoon. Teams start in the early morning to finish before the wind rises.
Best weeks
Many teams aim for the first half of May and the first half of November, when weather tends to be stable. Late October is also good. Avoid heavy snowfall periods and ask your guide about conditions.
Monsoon and winter
Summer brings clouds and snow on the high slopes, and winter is bitterly cold with strong winds. Few teams attempt the peak in those seasons, and many lodges close.
Reading the forecast
Forecasts for the Khumbu are imperfect, but trends help. Look for a stable high-pressure period with light winds at 6,000 m. Guides often use commercial forecast services and local observations. If the jet stream drops onto the Himalaya in autumn or spring, winds can make a summit attempt miserable or unsafe.
Crowds and camps
Lobuche East shares the valley with Everest trekkers and expeditions. In peak weeks the high camp can be crowded and fixed ropes busy. Booking a slightly earlier or later week can mean a calmer summit day.
October and November
The prime autumn window. See the best time guide.
The two reliable windows
Most successful ascents happen in spring and autumn, when the weather is stable and temperatures are bearable. Between them the mountain is either wet or very cold.
Choosing your week
Early in the spring window brings colder nights; later weeks are warmer but can be hazy. In autumn, the first weeks after the monsoon bring clear views, but snow conditions vary.
What changes between windows
In spring the days are longer and warmer but the snow is softer. In autumn the snow is firmer and the cold is sharper. Pick the window that matches your cold tolerance and your tolerance for crowds.
