There are two ways to walk from Pisang to Manang. The lower route goes through Humde and Mugje, close to the road. The upper route goes through Ghyaru and Ngawal, with better views and a better acclimatisation profile. Khangsar, on the way to Tilicho, is another quiet village worth knowing.
The upper trail
Distances and heights are rounded, and a slow day or a snowfall can change the times.
The upper route leaves Pisang and climbs to Ghyaru at about 3,670 m, then continues through Ngawal at about 3,660 m, before dropping to the main valley near Mungji. It is a longer walk with more climbing, but it avoids the road and gives wide views of Annapurna II, III and IV and Gangapurna.
Ghyaru
Ghyaru is a traditional stone village on a high ledge, with houses stacked on the hillside. The setting is dramatic, with big views and fewer trekkers than the lower route. Lodges are simple.
Ngawal
Ngawal is a larger village with fields, lodges and a monastery. It is also the end of the Kang La route from Nar Phu. If you walk the upper trail, you see the same view that Nar Phu trekkers see after the pass. See the Kang La crossing.
Why the upper route is better for acclimatisation
By climbing higher than Manang and then descending, you follow the principle of climbing high and sleeping low. You also spend more time in the valley. If you have time and energy, choose the upper route.
Khangsar
Khangsar is a small, quiet village south-west of Manang, on the way to Tilicho. It has lodges, a small monastery and big views of the peaks. It is also a good place to stay if you want a quiet night before the lake. See the Tilicho itinerary.
Choosing a route
- Lower route: shorter, easier, closer to the road.
- Upper route: longer, harder, better views and acclimatisation.
- Khangsar: a side trip for those heading to Tilicho.
Practical tips
- Start early on the upper trail; there is little shade.
- Carry water and snacks; choices between villages are limited.
- Check conditions with your guide.
- Respect local customs in the villages.
Walking times and stops
The upper route between Pisang and Ngawal usually takes five to six hours of walking, with a climb in the first half and a long traverse. Ghyaru is a good lunch stop. From Ngawal to Manang, you walk another three hours or so on gentler ground. Khangsar is a half-day side trip from Manang, or the first stop on the way to Tilicho.
What to look for
- Barley terraces in autumn colours.
- Old stone houses with prayer flags on the roofs.
- Views south across the valley to Annapurna II, III, IV and Gangapurna.
- Herds of yaks and goats on high pastures.
Common questions
Which route is better, upper or lower?
The upper route through Ghyaru and Ngawal has better views and acclimatisation. The lower route is shorter and easier.
Is Khangsar worth a visit?
Yes, especially if you are heading to Tilicho Lake. It is a quiet village with good views.
How much longer is the upper route?
It usually takes an hour or two longer and involves more climbing than the lower route.
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Excerpts from trekker reviews on our reviews page.
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