Phoksundo, at 3,611 m in Dolpo, is a deep turquoise lake set among cliffs and bare mountains, with a Tibetan-style village and a Bon monastery beside it. Rara, at 2,990 m in Mugu, is the largest lake in Nepal, ringed by pine forest and gentle hills. Phoksundo is more dramatic and higher; Rara is greener, lower and easier.
Phoksundo Lake and Rara Lake at a glance
- Height. Phoksundo Lake: 3,611 m. Rara Lake: 2,990 m.
- Region. Phoksundo Lake: Dolpa district, Shey Phoksundo National Park. Rara Lake: Mugu district, Rara National Park.
- Size. Phoksundo Lake: smaller but very deep. Rara Lake: the largest lake in Nepal, about 10 square km.
- Days from Kathmandu. Phoksundo Lake: 8 to 10. Rara Lake: 6 to 10, depending on flights and route.
- Access. Phoksundo Lake: flights to Nepalgunj and Juphal, then 3 days on foot. Rara Lake: flights to Nepalgunj and Talcha, then a few hours on foot; or a long road journey.
- Setting. Phoksundo Lake: rock, cliffs, waterfall, Tibetan culture. Rara Lake: pine, juniper and spruce forest, meadows.
Phoksundo
The walk from Juphal follows the Suligad river through forest for two to three days and climbs past a waterfall, among the highest in Nepal, to the village of Ringmo. The lake's colour, a blue-green that shifts with the light, comes from its depth and its lack of aquatic life. No boats or swimming are allowed. On the east shore stands a Bon monastery, and on the west a narrow trail cut into the cliff leads towards Upper Dolpo. See the Phoksundo Lake trek guides.
Rara
Rara lies in a shallow basin in the far north-west. The national park round it is the smallest in Nepal, and the mood is quiet and pastoral: clear water, forest to the shore, snow peaks in the distance and very few people. You can walk round the lake in a day and climb Murma Top for a view over it. See the Rara Lake trek guides.
Which is easier?
Rara. It is lower, the walking is gentler, and with a flight to Talcha the lake is only a few hours away. Phoksundo needs three days of steady climbing and sleeps above 3,600 m, where mild altitude symptoms are possible.
Access and reliability
Both depend on small aircraft from Nepalgunj, which fly only in good weather. Delays of a day or two are normal, so both treks need buffer days. Rara can also be reached by a rough road through Surkhet and Jumla over two to three days, which Phoksundo cannot.
Lodging
Both have simple lodges on the main trail and at the lake. Standards are basic compared with Everest or Annapurna, and the menu is limited.
Season
April to June and September to November for both. Rara is also attractive in winter under snow, for those prepared for the cold and uncertain flights. Phoksundo is workable in the monsoon, since Dolpo lies partly in the rain shadow.
Permits and guide
Phoksundo needs the national park permit and the Lower Dolpo restricted permit, with a licensed guide and two trekkers. Rara needs only the national park permit and a guide.
What a visit is like
At Phoksundo most trekkers spend two nights in Ringmo, walking to the monastery, to a viewpoint above the lake and a little way along the cliff path. At Rara two nights are also usual, with a day for the lakeside walk or Murma Top. Neither has much to do in the evening, which is part of their charm: you watch the light go and the stars come out.
Wildlife
Rara's forest shelters musk deer, Himalayan black bear and many birds, and the lake has its own species of snow trout. Around Phoksundo you are in blue sheep and snow leopard country, and Himalayan griffons circle over the cliffs.
Cost
Both cost more than a lodge trek of the same length elsewhere, because of two domestic flights each way. Phoksundo adds the restricted permit and a guide for two. Rara is the cheaper overall.
For Indian travellers
Nepalgunj, the gateway to both, lies on the Indian border near Rupaidiha in Uttar Pradesh, a few hours by road from Lucknow. Travellers from north India can enter there and save the journey to Kathmandu.
Choose Phoksundo Lake if
- You want the more spectacular scenery.
- You are interested in Bon and Tibetan culture.
- You are comfortable at 3,600 m.
- You may continue into Dolpo.
Choose Rara Lake if
- You want a gentle, low-altitude trek.
- You are travelling with family.
- You love forest and quiet water.
- You want the simpler permit.
Can you do both?
They are in neighbouring districts. A long trek of about three weeks links them through Jumla, but most people choose one per trip.
Plan it
Ask us for either trek, with flights and buffer days built in.
Common questions
Which lake is bigger?
Rara. It is the largest lake in Nepal.
Which is deeper?
Phoksundo, measured at about 145 m, is usually given as the deepest.
Which is higher?
Phoksundo, by about 620 m.
Can you swim in them?
No in Phoksundo, which is sacred. Rara is very cold and swimming is not encouraged.
Heights, days, fees and rules are approximate and can change, so confirm the current details with us before you book.
