Bhaktapur is a well-preserved medieval city about 13 km east of Kathmandu, known for brick squares, carved wood and tall pagoda temples. Its four main squares are Durbar Square, Taumadhi Square with the five-storey Nyatapola temple, Pottery Square and Dattatreya Square. Allow four to six hours.
Why Bhaktapur is special
Bhaktapur, also called Bhadgaon or Khwopa, was one of the three royal cities of the Kathmandu Valley under the Malla kings, along with Kathmandu and Patan. It has kept more of its old character than the other two. Much of the centre is closed to heavy traffic, the lanes are paved in brick, and craft work such as pottery, wood carving and weaving still goes on in the open. It is part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site.
Durbar Square
The former palace square holds the Palace of Fifty-five Windows, with its long carved wooden balcony, and the Golden Gate, a gilded doorway that is among the finest pieces of metalwork in Nepal. Around the square are stone and brick temples, statues of kings on tall pillars and a large bronze bell. Several buildings were damaged in the earthquakes of 1934 and 2015 and have been rebuilt or repaired, and work continues on some.
Taumadhi Square and Nyatapola
A short walk downhill brings you to Taumadhi Square and the Nyatapola temple, built in 1702 and, with five tiered roofs, the tallest pagoda temple in Nepal. Its stairway is guarded by pairs of stone figures, wrestlers, elephants, lions, griffins and goddesses, each pair said to be ten times stronger than the one below. Beside it stands the Bhairavnath temple. Cafes on the upper floors round the square give a good view.
Dattatreya Square and the Dattatreya temple
The oldest part of the city is at the eastern end, around Tachupal Tole, better known as Dattatreya Square. The Dattatreya temple dates from the 15th century, built in the reign of King Yaksha Malla, and tradition holds that its timber came from a single tree. Dattatreya is a combined form of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva, so the temple draws Hindus of several traditions, and Buddhists honour it too.
Behind the temple, in a narrow lane, is the Peacock Window, a small masterpiece of wood carving on the wall of an old priests' house. The square also has wood carving and brass museums and is usually quieter than Durbar Square.
Pottery Square and things to try
In Pottery Square potters turn clay on wheels and set rows of pots to dry in the sun before firing. You can try the wheel yourself for a small fee. Bhaktapur is famous for juju dhau, "king curd", a thick sweet yoghurt sold in clay bowls, and it is worth trying at least once.
Entry fee
Bhaktapur charges an entry fee to foreign visitors, which pays for upkeep of the old city. At the time of writing it is about NPR 1,800 (roughly USD 15), with a lower fee of about NPR 500 for SAARC nationals, including Indians. Fees change, so check before you go. Keep the ticket with you; if you plan to stay overnight, ask at the counter about extending it.
How to get there
A taxi or private car from Thamel takes 45 to 60 minutes depending on traffic. Local buses run from Bagbazar and Ratna Park and take a little longer. Many visitors combine Bhaktapur with Changu Narayan, a hilltop Vishnu temple about 6 km north, or with sunrise or sunset at Nagarkot, which is about 20 km further east.
Festivals in Bhaktapur
The big one is Bisket Jatra, at the Nepali New Year in mid-April, when a huge wooden chariot is pulled through the streets in a tug of war between the upper and lower halves of the city, and a tall pole is raised and brought down. Gai Jatra in August or September is also celebrated here with particular energy. See festivals of Nepal.
How it fits round a trek
Bhaktapur makes a calm first or last day. It is at about the same altitude as Kathmandu, 1,400 m, the walking is flat and the pace is slow, which suits tired legs after a trek. See day trips from Kathmandu for ways to combine it.
A simple walking route
Enter by the main western gate and start in Durbar Square. Walk on to Taumadhi Square for Nyatapola, drop south to Pottery Square, then follow the main brick street east for about ten minutes to Dattatreya Square and the Peacock Window. Come back by the lanes to the north, which pass small courtyards, sunken water spouts and neighbourhood shrines. The whole circuit is about 3 km and almost flat. A local guide, hired at the gate, adds a great deal for a modest fee.
Staying a night
A night in Bhaktapur is worth considering. Day visitors leave by late afternoon, and in the evening the squares belong to local people: old men talking on the temple steps, children playing, music from a neighbourhood shrine. Early morning is the same. There are small guesthouses in restored brick houses round the squares, and the airport is only about 30 to 40 minutes away, which makes Bhaktapur a calm choice for a last night in Nepal.
Common questions
How far is Bhaktapur from Kathmandu?
About 13 km east of the city centre, usually 45 to 60 minutes by road.
Where is the Dattatreya temple?
In Dattatreya Square (Tachupal Tole) at the eastern end of old Bhaktapur, about 10 minutes on foot from Taumadhi Square.
Is one day enough for Bhaktapur?
Yes. Four to six hours covers the four squares at an easy pace. Staying a night lets you see the city early and late, when day visitors have gone.
What is Bhaktapur famous for?
Its medieval squares, the five-storey Nyatapola temple, the Palace of Fifty-five Windows, the Peacock Window, pottery and juju dhau yoghurt.
Heights, dates, fees and rules are approximate and can change, so confirm the current details with us before you book.
