The Ulleri staircase is the best-known obstacle on the Poon Hill trek. It is a long, steep stone stairway climbing through the village and the forest above, and for many trekkers it is the hardest hour of the whole trip. Knowing what to expect makes it far easier to handle.
What the staircase is like
The steps are made of uneven stone, some high and some shallow, built by villagers over many decades. They climb from the river valley toward Ulleri at about 2,000 m and continue into the forest. Counts of the exact number of steps vary, but the climb takes most trekkers around two hours with rests, and it can feel longer in heat.
How to pace it
- Start early, before the sun heats the slope.
- Use a slow, steady rhythm, taking a breath for every few steps.
- Stop to drink water, enjoy views and let your heart rate settle.
- Use trekking poles to reduce load on your knees.
- Do not race groups ahead of you. Everyone arrives at the same lodge.
The rest of the trail
Beyond Ulleri the path continues through oak and rhododendron forest, with a series of steep sections, wooden bridges and short flats. Banthanti and Nangethanti are popular tea stops. The forest is cool and shaded, which is a relief after the open staircase. Ghorepani appears gradually as you climb, usually in the afternoon.
The descent
Many trekkers find the descent to Nayapul or from Tadapani to Ghandruk harder on joints than the ascent was on lungs. The same stone steps appear in reverse, so use poles, take small steps and let your knees bend. Pace yourself and take breaks to avoid leg tremors.
Making it easier
Train with stairs, hire a porter for your main bag, start with a good breakfast and keep snacks handy. If the staircase is not for you, ask your operator about alternative routes with fewer steps. A slightly longer, gentler path via Hile can reduce effort for some travellers.
Why the steps exist
The stone steps were built by local people so that traders, villagers and pilgrims could cross steep hills safely. Many have been repaired and extended over the years. They are part of a living trail used by porters, mules and children walking to school, so treat them with respect and give way to animals and loads.
Etiquette with mules and porters
- Stand on the uphill side of the trail when mule trains pass.
- Give porters priority, since they carry heavy loads.
- Do not stop in narrow spots.
- Greet people with a smile and a namaste.
Rest stops along the stairs
Small tea houses and benches appear along the route. They are useful places to catch your breath, drink tea and buy snacks. Resting at a tea house also supports local families. Take advantage of them rather than pushing through.
Weather and safety
In rain the steps are slippery, and moss and mud add risk. In dry conditions dust can irritate eyes and lungs, so a buff helps. Avoid walking in the dark, because uneven steps are hard to see. If you feel dizzy or unwell, stop and rest, and tell your guide.
