Upper Mustang has teahouses in most villages along the main route. They are usually family-run, built of stone and mud, and offer a warm welcome after a day in the wind.
Rooms
Expect small twin rooms with simple beds and thin walls. Rooms are generally unheated, so a good sleeping bag is recommended even if blankets are provided. In Lo Manthang, some lodges are more comfortable and a few offer attached bathrooms. Demand rises during the festival period and in autumn.
Meals
You will find the familiar trekking menu of dal bhat, noodles, fried rice, soups, eggs and pancakes. Local dishes may include barley-based foods, buckwheat bread, yak cheese and butter tea, depending on the lodge. Apples and apple products are grown in the lower villages and are sold in season. Because supplies come a long way, the choice narrows in smaller places.
Heat and water
The dining room usually has a stove, often fuelled by dung or wood because trees are few. It can be smoky, so sit near a window if smoke bothers you. Drinking water should be boiled or treated. Dryness makes you thirsty, so carry a large bottle.
Washing and toilets
Hot showers are limited and may involve an extra charge. Water can freeze at night, so shower in the middle of the day if you want one. Toilets range from simple squat types to flush toilets in newer buildings.
Power and signal
Charging usually costs extra and relies on solar power, which means supply varies. A power bank helps. Mobile signal is patchy outside the main villages.
Etiquette
- Eat at the lodge where you stay.
- Ask before photographing people or monasteries.
- Take your litter with you where there is no collection.
Local flavours
Alongside the usual dal bhat, noodles and fried rice, you may be offered local specialities such as Tibetan bread, buckwheat dishes, dried meats or yak butter tea in some homes. Try them if you are curious, but eat what suits your stomach. Apples and apple products are grown in the lower villages, and you may find fresh fruit, juice or brandy in season.
Lodges, warmth and light
Most lodges are built with thick walls to keep out the cold, but the rooms are not heated. Dining rooms have stoves that are lit in the evening and give a cosy atmosphere. Electricity may come from solar panels or small hydro schemes, so lighting can be dim, and charging may be limited. A headlamp is useful.
Making the most of your stay
Take time to chat with the lodge owners, who often have fascinating family stories. Ask about local customs and festivals, and consider buying a small souvenir from the village. Be flexible with meal times, because the cook may be busy with many orders.
Good habits
- Order food early and for the whole group together.
- Carry snacks for long stretches between villages.
- Avoid drying wet clothes on the stove unless the owner agrees.
Cultural dining experiences
Mustang cuisine includes Tibetan bread, potato dishes, thukpa soup, buckwheat and dried yak meat. You may be offered butter tea, salty and rich. Try small amounts, and enjoy the hospitality. Apple products are available in the lower villages.
Winter and shoulder-season lodging
In shoulder months, some lodges may be closed or have reduced services. Check ahead and carry extra warm clothing. Heating is limited to stoves in dining rooms.
