Renjo La is a high pass at about 5,360 m that links the Gokyo valley to the Bhote Koshi valley in the west. Crossing it turns the Gokyo Lakes trek into a loop, avoiding backtracking and giving a quiet descent through Lungden, Marlung and Thame. It is a long day, but on a clear morning the view back toward Gokyo and Everest is spectacular.
The route
The climb starts from Gokyo at about 4,790 m and follows a steady zigzag trail up a slope to the pass, taking about three to four hours. A line of prayer flags and a stone cairn mark the top. From the pass the trail descends steeply to Lungden at roughly 4,380 m, taking another two to three hours. The whole day is five to eight hours depending on fitness, snow and photo breaks.
How hard is it
It is demanding but not technical in normal conditions. The difficulty is altitude, a long climb and a steep descent over rock steps. Fresh snow, ice or strong wind can make the pass dangerous. Trekking poles help and microspikes may be needed early or late in the season.
When to go
October and April are usually the best months, with November also possible if the pass is clear. After heavy snow the pass may close for a day or two. Do not attempt it in bad weather or after a night of heavy snowfall without your guide's approval.
Going east to west or west to east
- East to west (Gokyo to Lungden) gives a steeper descent but a more gradual ascent, with the sun behind you.
- West to east (Lungden to Gokyo) is a steeper climb and a more dramatic arrival at the lakes.
- Your itinerary will decide, but ask which direction the operator prefers and why.
Preparing for the day
Start early to cross before afternoon wind and cloud. Carry plenty of water, snacks, warm layers, a windproof jacket and sunglasses. Walk slowly and avoid large gaps in the group. Before crossing, spend at least one night at Gokyo for acclimatisation.
If you cannot cross
Retreating to Machhermo and Dole is a perfectly acceptable alternative. It does not diminish the trek. Make this decision calmly, based on weather and how you feel, not on pride. A spare day also allows another attempt after a snowfall.
What the day looks like hour by hour
Leave Gokyo before dawn, around 5:00 or 6:00. Follow the lakeside path and begin the zigzag ascent at first light. Reach the pass by mid-morning, rest briefly, take photographs and begin the descent. Arrive at Lungden by early afternoon, ideally before clouds and wind build. Eat, rest and stay warm, since Lungden is cold.
What to carry for the pass
- Layers you can add or remove quickly.
- A thermos with hot drink.
- High-energy snacks such as nuts and chocolate.
- Microspikes if conditions are icy.
- Sunglasses and sun cream for glare.
The view from the top
On a clear day you see the Gokyo Lakes spread out below, with Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu on the skyline. Many trekkers consider the view from Renjo La even better than from Gokyo Ri, because the lakes appear in full. Take your time and take photographs.
