Panch Pokhari and Tsho Rolpa are both quiet lake treks within a day's drive of Kathmandu. Panch Pokhari is a ridge trek of 8 to 10 days to five small sacred lakes at about 4,100 m, mostly camping. Tsho Rolpa is a valley trek of 10 to 13 days to a large glacial lake at about 4,580 m, with basic lodges in Sherpa villages. Choose Panch Pokhari for a pilgrimage ridge; choose Tsho Rolpa for a high glacial valley.
Panch Pokhari and Tsho Rolpa at a glance
- Height. Panch Pokhari: about 4,100 m. Tsho Rolpa: about 4,580 m.
- Days. Panch Pokhari: 8 to 10. Tsho Rolpa: 10 to 13.
- Terrain. Panch Pokhari: forest and open ridges. Tsho Rolpa: deep valley, moraine, glaciers.
- Lodging. Panch Pokhari: camping above the villages. Tsho Rolpa: basic lodges.
- Meaning. Panch Pokhari: sacred lakes with a Shiva temple. Tsho Rolpa: a natural glacial lake, closely monitored.
- Nearest big peak. Panch Pokhari: Dorje Lakpa and the Jugal range. Tsho Rolpa: Gaurishankar and the Rolwaling peaks.
Panch Pokhari
From the road head in Sindhupalchok the trail climbs through villages and forest to long ridges. The five lakes lie in a hollow just below a viewpoint. See Panch Pokhari, the five sacred lakes.
Tsho Rolpa
The Rolwaling trail climbs from the Tama Kosi to Simigaon, Beding and Na, with the lake a half-day beyond. See the Rolwaling guides.
Scenery
Tsho Rolpa is the more dramatic: a lake about three kilometres long under hanging glaciers, at the end of a valley walled by 6,000 and 7,000 m peaks. Panch Pokhari's appeal is subtler, in the ridge walking, the forest and the wide dawn view.
Culture
Rolwaling's Sherpas regard the valley as a sacred hidden land, a beyul, and hunting has long been forbidden there. Panch Pokhari is a pilgrimage place for Hindus and Buddhists from the surrounding hills, busiest at Janai Purnima in August.
Difficulty
Both are moderate to hard. Tsho Rolpa goes higher and has steeper days. Panch Pokhari needs camping skills and a crew.
Season
April to May and October to November.
Permits
Panch Pokhari needs the Langtang National Park permit. Rolwaling needs the Gaurishankar Conservation Area permit. A licensed guide is expected for both.
Access
Both start five to eight hours from Kathmandu by road, in neighbouring districts, with no flights involved.
Cost
Tsho Rolpa is usually cheaper per day, because lodges remove the need for a camping crew. Panch Pokhari is shorter but needs tents, a cook and porters, so totals end up close.
Rhododendron and seasons of colour
Both routes are superb in April, when rhododendron of several colours flowers from about 2,500 to 3,800 m. In autumn the ridges of Panch Pokhari turn gold and the air is at its clearest for the long views.
A typical day on each
On the Panch Pokhari route you walk five to seven hours along forested ridges, with tea made by the crew at a clearing and camp pitched near a herder's hut or a spring. Water points are limited on the ridges, so the day's stages are fixed by where it can be found. In Rolwaling you walk four to six hours up the valley floor between villages, cross side streams on log bridges and sleep in a family lodge, eating in the kitchen beside the fire.
Altitude
Panch Pokhari's sleeping heights rise gradually to about 4,000 m over five days, and most people cope well. Rolwaling climbs faster, from under 1,500 m at the road to Beding at about 3,700 m in three days and Na at about 4,180 m on the fourth, so a rest day at Beding is advisable before visiting the lake.
Which suits a first quiet trek?
If you have done a lodge trek and want to try somewhere less travelled, Tsho Rolpa is the simpler step, because you can still sleep indoors. Panch Pokhari is the next step after that, once you are comfortable with camping and with long days where you see nobody.
Earthquake recovery
Both areas were badly hit in 2015, Sindhupalchok and Dolakha being among the worst-affected districts. Trails and villages have been rebuilt, and visitors bring income to communities that see little of Nepal's tourist economy.
Choose Panch Pokhari if
- You like ridge walks and wide views.
- You are interested in pilgrimage sites.
- You are happy to camp.
- You have about nine days.
Choose Tsho Rolpa if
- You want a large glacial lake and ice scenery.
- You prefer lodges.
- You want Sherpa villages without Everest crowds.
- You have about twelve days.
Plan it
Ask us for either itinerary with transport from Kathmandu.
Common questions
Which is higher?
Tsho Rolpa, by about 480 m.
Which is less visited?
Both are quiet. Panch Pokhari sees very few foreign trekkers.
Are there lodges at Panch Pokhari?
Only simple shelters. Plan to camp.
Is Rolwaling a restricted area?
No, though it has its own conservation area permit.
Heights, days, fees and rules are approximate and can change, so confirm the current details with us before you book.
