Island Peak needs a mix of trekking gear and technical equipment. Much of the technical kit can be rented in Kathmandu, but fit and condition matter, so inspect everything.
Technical equipment
- Mountaineering boots suitable for crampons, warm enough for the summit night.
- Crampons that fit your boots properly.
- Ice axe, harness, helmet and carabiners.
- Jumar or ascender, as advised by your guide.
- Rope and group safety gear are typically provided by the operator.
Clothing
- Base layers, mid layers and a warm down jacket.
- Insulated and waterproof shell jacket and trousers.
- Warm gloves and thin liner gloves, plus a spare pair.
- Warm hat, buff, balaclava and sun hat.
- Several pairs of socks, including warm summit socks.
Sleeping
A sleeping bag rated for very cold nights is essential, with a liner. A foam mat adds insulation in tents.
Eyes and skin
Glacier glasses or goggles with strong UV protection, plus high-factor sunscreen and lip balm.
Other essentials
- Headlamp with spare batteries kept warm.
- Water bottles with insulated covers.
- Trekking poles for the approach.
- Personal first-aid kit and medicines.
Renting
Rent boots only if they fit well, since blisters on summit day are costly. Try them on before you leave Kathmandu.
Layering that works
Mountain clothing works best as a system of thin layers rather than one thick garment. A base layer wicks sweat, a mid layer traps heat, and a windproof and waterproof shell protects against weather. On summit day you will add a down jacket and warm gloves. Being able to add and remove layers quickly helps you avoid sweating on the climb and chilling at rest stops.
Boots, crampons and fit
Rigid or semi-rigid mountaineering boots are required, and crampons must fit your boots exactly. If you rent, try the boots on in Kathmandu with the socks you will wear, walk around and kick the toe against a step to check for pressure. Poor boot fit leads to blisters and cold feet and is much harder to fix once you are on the trail.
Small items that matter
Spare gloves, a good headlamp with spare batteries, glacier glasses, sun cream, lip balm, a water bottle with insulation and a small first-aid kit are easy to overlook but matter on the mountain. A compact pack for summit day, a warm hat and a buff for dust are also useful. Label your gear and keep essentials where you can reach them.
- Test everything on a cold training day first.
- Bring two pairs of sunglasses or goggles.
- Avoid cotton against your skin.
Hardware you will need
Technical equipment includes a mountaineering harness, a helmet, a pair of crampons that fit your boots, an ice axe, a carabiner or two, an ascender and a figure-eight or belay device. Some operators supply these items, while others expect you to bring or rent them. Confirm in advance, and inspect rented gear for wear before the climb.
Clothing for the climb
On summit day wear a thermal base layer, a mid-layer fleece, a down or synthetic jacket and a hard shell with a hood. Insulated trousers or shell pants over thermals protect your legs. Layer gloves, with a thin liner and a thick mitten or glove. Use thick socks and a hat or balaclava under the helmet.
Packing for the trek and base camp
- A duffel bag for porters and a 30 to 40 litre daypack for the climb.
- A four-season sleeping bag rated to at least minus 15 degrees Celsius.
- Trekking boots for the approach and mountaineering boots for the climb.
- Water bottles, a thermos and electrolyte tablets.
- Headlamps with spare batteries, because batteries drain in the cold.
