Machapuchare (6,993 m) is the best-known mountain in Nepal that climbers are not allowed to climb, and Khumbila (5,761 m) is the best-known sacred peak that has never been climbed. A number of other high peaks, such as Chamar South, Asapurna I and Asapurna II, are listed as unclimbed for different reasons.
Machapuchare: closed
The 1957 British expedition turned back short of the summit, and climbing has been banned since the early 1960s. The reason is its sacred status. See the ban and the reopening debate and why it is unclimbed.
Khumbila: sacred and unclimbed
Khumbila is too sacred for most Sherpas to climb, and no ascent is recorded. See the Khumbila guide.
Other peaks listed as unclimbed
Climbing reference lists name several unclimbed Nepal peaks above 7,000 m, including Chamar South (7,161 m), Asapurna I (7,140 m), Annapurna Dakshin North-East (7,126 m) and Asapurna II (7,069 m). Their status can change when a new team succeeds, so treat the list as a snapshot.
Why peaks stay unclimbed
The main reasons are religious belief, remote location, difficult terrain and the fact that climbers prefer taller, better-known mountains. A peak that is open but unclimbed is simply waiting for a team with a permit.
Closed and then climbed
Gaurishankar was officially closed to climbers from 1965 to 1979 and was then climbed in 1979. See the Gaurishankar guide.
Common questions
- Which mountain in Nepal is closed to climbing? Machapuchare.
- Which sacred mountain has never been climbed? Khumbila.
- Is Mount Everest sacred? Yes, Sherpas and Tibetans honour it, but it is climbed. See its names and first ascent.
Plan it
Read the sacred mountains overview or how to respect sacred mountains on a trek.
