The Three Passes is a teahouse trek, so you sleep in simple mountain lodges and eat in shared dining rooms. Comfort is good lower down, in Lukla, Phakding, Namche and Dingboche, and becomes basic at Gokyo, Thangnak, Dzongla, Lobuche and Gorak Shep. Knowing what to expect makes the cold nights and plain food much easier to accept.
Rooms and beds
Rooms are small and usually have two single beds with mattresses and pillows. Walls are thin, and rooms are not heated. A warm sleeping bag rated for low temperatures is important, and a sleeping bag liner adds warmth and cleanliness. Many lodges have shared bathrooms. At the highest stops expect cold toilets, and water that may freeze at night.
The dining room
The dining room is the warm place. A stove, usually fed with dried yak dung or wood or gas, is lit in the evening, and everyone gathers there. Expect to spend a lot of time reading, writing and talking. Arrive early to get a place by the stove, and bring a warm layer for the walk back to your room.
Food and drink
- Dal bhat, the rice and lentil meal, is filling and often includes refills.
- Noodle soup, fried rice, potatoes, pasta, eggs and pancakes are widely available.
- Garlic soup is popular for altitude.
- Hot drinks, such as ginger tea and lemon tea, help you drink more.
Meat is best avoided at high altitude because of storage and hygiene, and freshly cooked vegetarian meals are usually safer and lighter.
Water
Bottled water gets expensive and adds plastic waste. Boiled water, filter bottles or purification tablets are better, and many lodges sell boiled water by the litre. Drink steadily through the day.
Showers, charging and wifi
Hot showers and charging are available at many lodges for an extra fee, and the price rises with altitude. Wifi is patchy and often paid. A power bank and a small solar charger are useful, and your phone and camera batteries lose power quickly in the cold, so keep them in an inside pocket.
Keeping healthy
Wash hands before meals, use sanitiser, choose hot, freshly cooked food and avoid raw salads. Bring rehydration salts and basic medicines in case of stomach upset.
