Baruntse is a 7,129 m peak in the Everest region, south of Lhotse and close to the Makalu massif. It is a serious climb, considerably harder than a trekking peak, and is usually attempted by climbers with experience on peaks such as Mera and Island Peak.
Where it is
Baruntse stands between the Hunku and Barun valleys, east of the Everest Base Camp trail. It is visible from Island Peak and the Amphu Laptsa area, and its summit ridge is easy to recognise.
History
The peak was first climbed in 1954 by a New Zealand party. Today it is climbed by commercial teams, mostly in spring and autumn.
Why people climb it
At more than 7,000 m, it is a step above the usual trekking peaks, but it is considered one of the more accessible 7,000 m peaks in Nepal. The summit view includes Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Ama Dablam.
How it is different
Baruntse is not a trekking peak. It is climbed as an expedition, with a base camp, several high camps, fixed ropes, high-altitude porters and a longer schedule.
Who it suits
Climbers who have already summited a peak above 6,000 m, are strong on snow and ice, and have time for a four to five week trip.
What the climb involves
Expect a long walk-in, a base camp, several high camps and a long summit day on snow, ice and a final crest. Fixed ropes are used on steeper sections, and weather decides the schedule.
Questions people ask first
Is oxygen needed? Not always, but many teams carry it for safety. Is it a first 7,000 m peak? Often yes, and it is a good choice for that, if you are experienced. Can I do it after Mera Peak? Yes, that is a common sequence.
Plan it
See the route and approach, the itinerary and the experience you need.
