Upper Mustang is a trek of 10 to 14 days to Lo Manthang, at about 3,800 m, with good lodges, moderate altitude and an expensive permit. Nar Phu is a trek of 9 to 12 days to two remote villages above 4,000 m, with basic lodges, a pass of about 5,300 m and a much cheaper permit. Mustang is easier and richer in monuments; Nar Phu is wilder and more physical.
Upper Mustang and Nar Phu Valley at a glance
- Days. Upper Mustang: 10 to 14. Nar Phu Valley: 9 to 12.
- Highest point. Upper Mustang: about 4,300 m. Nar Phu Valley: Kang La, about 5,300 m.
- Permit. Upper Mustang: USD 500 for the first 10 days. Nar Phu Valley: far lower, charged per week.
- Lodges. Upper Mustang: comfortable. Nar Phu Valley: basic.
- Road. Upper Mustang: a jeep track runs through the region. Nar Phu Valley: none beyond Koto.
- Grade. Upper Mustang: moderate. Nar Phu Valley: hard.
Landscape
Both are dry and eroded. Mustang is broad and open, a high desert of coloured cliffs, wide riverbeds and distant snow peaks. Nar Phu is narrow and vertical: you enter through a gorge and the villages sit beneath glaciers and 7,000 m peaks such as Himlung and Kang Guru.
Culture and monuments
Mustang has the greater heritage. Lo Manthang's walls enclose a royal palace and monasteries with 15th-century wall paintings, and the region is dotted with cave complexes, some of them painted. Nar and Phu are living villages more than monuments, with one major monastery, Tashi Lhakhang, near Phu. See the Upper Mustang guides and Nar Phu Valley.
Difficulty
Mustang's trail crosses several passes of around 4,000 m, none severe. Wind and dust are the main trials. Nar Phu involves long days, two nights above 4,000 m and the Kang La, a hard crossing with a very steep descent.
The road question
The road through Mustang divides opinion. It brings dust and vehicles on parts of the route, though trails on the east bank and through side valleys avoid much of it. It also makes Mustang accessible by jeep for people who cannot trek. Nar Phu has no road.
Cost
Mustang's permit makes it the dearer of the two for the same number of days. Nar Phu's lower fee is partly offset by its remoteness, which raises lodge prices.
Season
Mustang: March to November, including the monsoon. Nar Phu: April to May and September to November. Winter is harsh in both.
Combining with other treks
Mustang stands alone, starting and ending at Jomsom. Nar Phu joins the Annapurna Circuit at Ngawal and is often extended over the Thorong La. See the Annapurna Circuit vs Nar Phu.
Lodges and food
Mustang's lodges are among the better ones in remote Nepal, with private rooms, solar showers in places and a varied menu. In Nar Phu expect a bed, blankets, a warm kitchen and simple food: dal bhat, noodles, potatoes, Tibetan bread. At Meta and Kyang on the way in, choice is very limited.
Acclimatisation
Mustang rarely causes altitude problems if you take the usual two days from Kagbeni to gain height. Nar Phu needs more thought. Phu is at just over 4,000 m and Nar slightly higher, and the pass follows directly. A rest day in Phu, with a walk up towards Himlung Base Camp, is standard.
Festivals
Mustang's Tiji festival, three days of masked dances in the square of Lo Manthang, usually falls in May and is the busiest time of year there. Nar and Phu hold their own village festivals in summer, less known and rarely seen by outsiders.
Getting there
Mustang begins at Jomsom, reached by flight or road from Pokhara. Nar Phu begins at Koto, reached by jeep up the Marsyangdi valley from Besisahar in a long day.
Who chooses which
Travellers interested in history and those wanting a gentler trek choose Mustang. Trekkers looking for effort, height and a sense of discovery choose Nar Phu.
Choose Upper Mustang if
- You want history, art and architecture.
- You prefer moderate days and good lodges.
- You are travelling in the monsoon.
- You may want a jeep for part of the route.
Choose Nar Phu Valley if
- You want a harder, wilder trek.
- You want a high pass.
- You want the lower permit fee.
- You plan to continue on the Annapurna Circuit.
Plan it
See Nar Phu vs Tsum Valley vs Upper Mustang, or ask us for both itineraries.
Common questions
Which is more expensive?
Upper Mustang, because of its permit.
Which is harder?
Nar Phu.
Do both need a minimum of two trekkers?
Yes, with a licensed guide.
Which is better for photography?
Mustang for colour and architecture; Nar Phu for mountain drama.
Heights, days, fees and rules are approximate and can change, so confirm the current details with us before you book.
